Friday 1 October 2010

Secondary Research

http://www.ucl.ac.uk/global-denim-project/


(http://www.collectibles-articles.com/Article/The-History-of-Denim/23414)
Denim can be found all over the world in a number of forms with jeans proving to be the most common way to wear it. Cared for properly, it can last for years and has featured in trends and fashions for centuries.

The History of Denim

Denim derives from the French fabric called serge and its original name of serge de Nimes was soon shortened to denim. The word jean comes from Italian sailors who used to adorn the material that came from Europe for protection from the elements in the rough seas.

18th century denim
Workers in the cotton plantations, slave camps and trading jobs wore jeans due to its durability and strength in the rough industries.

19th century denim
By the next century, miners took to wearing the strong material that refused to tear and America welcomed the denim industry with the launch of Levi Strauss.

1930s and 40s
In the height of the western movies, cowboys made jeans all the more popular with their rugged images and strong personalities. American soldiers can be thanked for bringing denim and jeans to the attention of the rest of the world and soon after many new companies were founded in a bid to rival Levi.

1950s, 60s 70s
Many schools across the world banned denim as it became associated with a rebellious image after James Dean donned a pair of jeans throughout the hit film, Rebel Without A Cause. The next decade saw the rebirth of denim into a civilised society with embroidered patterns and psychedelic styles and in places across Asia and other non-western countries denim became a notorious sign of western decadence that reflected wealth and was often unaffordable and hard to find.

1980s and 90s
The 80s welcomed denim in a massive way with many designers creating various styles and sales around the world soared. The 90s saw the market for denim go slightly subdued as youngsters sought to break traditional clothing styles in place of more modern options but the beauty of denim is that it is always popular and the millennium welcomed back a resurge in the world of denim.

Denim trends over the years
Trends have altered dramatically throughout the years in a bid to keep up with the latest fashions. From bell bottoms in the 60s and 70s to skinny jeans in the 80s, denim has proved to be as flexible as it is durable. It comes in a range of clothing including overalls, shorts, dresses, cut offs, hats, bags, shirts and skirts and its diversity has earned it popularity across the globe.

Denim makes a comeback
Denim is always available and ever present in shops but as with all fashions the demand for it goes up and down. The 90s saw a generation of rebellious teenagers choosing to avoid denim as parents continued to wear it and therefore making it unattractive to the young generation. This year, denim has yet again made a resurgence as it has been reinvented once again. Denim is free from all social restrictions making it a designer’s dream. It assumes a wide range of guises and prices can vary from designer outfits to dutiful jeans. 2009 is the year of denim and with such a comeback many companies are sure to produce new styles and designs over the coming years that will take their own place in the history books of denim.

http://www.designboom.com/eng/education/denim2.html

denim
( also called blue jeans, jeans, dungarees, or levi's )
historical evolution / trend 2000 / material
by birgit lohmann, 2000

the history of denim, the fabric phenomenon
of the last centuries: the 18th century
in the eighteenth century as trade, slave labour,
and cotton plantations increased, workers wore jean cloth
because the material was very strong and it did not wear out easily.

--
the 19th century: the california gold rush
the gold miners wanted clothes that were strong and did not
tear easily. in 1853, leob strauss started a wholesale business,
supplying clothes. strauss later changed his name from leob to levi.

--
the 1930's: westerns
cowboys - who often wore jeans in the movies-became very popular.

--
the 1940's: war
fewer jeans were made during the time of world war 2,
but they were introduced to the world by american soldiers,
who sometimes wore them when they were off duty. after the war,
rival companies, like wrangler and lee, began to compete with
levi for a share of the international market.

--
the 1950's: rebels
ìn the 1950's, denim became popular with young people.
it was the symbol of the teenage rebel in TV shows
and movies (james dean in the 1955 movie rebel without a cause).
some schools in the USA banned students from wearing denim.

--
the 1960-70's: hippies & the cold war
different styles of jeans were made, to match the 60's fashions:
embroidered jeans, painted jeans, psychedelic jeans...
in many non-western countries, jeans became a symbol of
' western decadence' and were very hard to get.

--
the 1980's: designer jeans
in the 1980's jeans became high fashion clothing, when famous
designers started making their own styles of jeans, with their
own labels on them. sales of jeans went up and up.

--
the 1990's: recession
although denim is never completely out of style, it certainly goes
out of 'fashion' from time to time. in these years the youth market
wasn't particularly interested in 501s and other traditional
jeans styles, mainly because their parents: the' generation born
in blue' were still busy squeezing their aging bodies into them.
since no teenager would be caught dead in anything their parents
are wearing, the latest generation of rebellious youth turned to
other fabrics and other styles of casual pants, such as khakis,
chinos, combat and carpenters and branded sportswear pants.
they still wore denim, but it had to be in different finishes,
new cuts, shapes, styles, or in the form of aged, authentic,
vintage jeans, discovered in markets, secondhand- and thrift shops,
not conventional jeans stores. levi strauss & co., the number-one
producer of jeans and the "single most potent symbol of american
style on planet earth" (as the los angeles times succinctly put it),
is in trouble. eleven north american factories close, a nation grieves.

--
2000: reinventing denim
something decidedly weird is happening in the world of denim.
the products need to be reinvented from time to time and jeans
has been back on designers catwalks, at chanel, dior, chloe
and versace. the single most potent symbol of fashion, summer '99
tom ford's feathered, beaded, beat-up, torn-knee gucci blue jeans,
seen globally, sell out instantaneously at $3715 a pop.
and then, on the internet, was the shining image of helmut lang's
silver-sprayed pants, striding out beyond our conception of
basic utility. freed of all social and creative restrictions, denim is
assuming any number of disguises and contexts to be worn in
and has broken through almost any limitation on price.
it can also be found in home collections, appearing in cushions,
bed spreads and furniture-coverings.

--
but if denim is making a major fashion statement,
where does that leave the traditional jeans brands?
the old mass market has segmented, fragmented, shattered into
a multitude of mini, micro and niche markets. the last generation
has a vast quantity of brands to choose from, a different perception
of the cult value of owning small insider labels and a fanatical loyalty
only to what's hot on a daily basis.
levis has recently launched in europe and set to be introduced to
the US market in autumn his 'engeneered jeans', which are
ergonomically designed and preshaped to follow the contours
of the body. 'visionaire' - in the high drama, high class, high-heeled
world of fashion publishing, a limited edition magazine that costs
an uncompromising £150 ,collaborates for their issue 31
(february 2000) with levi's on the theme blue.
levi's and the dutch design agency 'droog' have collaborated to
reinvent the 501 cult classic 'levi's red line',showcased in february
at the paris' design store colette , at jones in london and in april at
the milan furniture fair. not enough, after three years of sluggish sales,
the san francisco-based company is desperately trying to regain
brand status. in 1999, levi's sales totaled $5.1 billion, down 28 %
from $7.1 billion in 1996. they now announced the launch of a new
advertising and marketing campaign called 'make them your own'.
the campaign is one of levi's most aggressive sales pitches to date.
the theme is narcissistic youth, featuring young people checking
themselves out in their blue jeans. all of the ads target 18 to
24-year-olds, the consumer segment that levi's lost to competitive
brands like tommy hilfiger and gap. while the budget for the
campaign was not disclosed, industry analysts are billing it as the
largest advertising effort in levi's history.

--
denim and jeans - where do the names come from?
the word jeans comes from a kind of material that was made in europe.
the material, called jean, was named after sailors from genoa in italy,
because they wore clothes made from it. the word 'denim' probably
came from the name of a french material, serge de nimes:
serge (a kind of material) from nimes (a town in france).

--
traditional denim
durable twill-woven cotton fabric with coloured (usually blue) warp
and white filling threads; it is also woven in coloured stripes.

--
rivets
a big problem with the miners' clothes were the pockets,
which easily tore away from the jeans. jacob davis had the idea of
using metal rivets (fasteners) to hold the pockets and the jeans
together so that they wouldn't tear. davis wanted to patent his idea,
but he didn't have enough money, so in 1872, he wrote to levi strauss
and offered strauss a deal if strauss would pay for the patent and
strauss accepted.

--
label
in 1886, levi sewed a leather label on their jeans. the label showed a
picture of a pair of jeans that were being pulled between two horses.

--
who started to pre-wash them?
jack spence for lee

--
who started with stone-wash?
francois girbaud

--
what stones where used?
first pea gravel, then pomice, because they floate around with the jeans,
nstead of lying in the bottom of the water; turkish stones are preferred
for their porosity and cleanliness or stones from sicily,
but their supply is limited.

--
who started sandblasting?
different brands used it in 1988 in italy

--
denim is no longer a cotton only product
denims come with either polyamide, lycra, polypropylene or with
polyester and a special bonding with a 100% nylon net for a more
active look. twoway stretch fabrics and special coatings or rubberised
effects continue to be a strong trend

--
the shabby, rotten or dirty look
in line with the trend for a vintage denim looks set to be around with
the 'homespun look' with his irregular appearance.
lighter, softer denims in dress and shirting weights were introduced.
various natural fibres, such as linen, hemp or wool and for the luxe
looks even silk and cashmere are turning up in new denims to give
them different aesthetics.

--
why is denim blue?
denim is unique in it's singular connection with one colour.
the warp yarn is traditionally dyed with the blue pigment obtained
from indigo dye. until the introduction of synthetic dyes, at the end of
the 19th century, indigo was the most significant natural dye known
to mankind, linked with practical fabrics and work clothing. the durability
of indigo as a colour and it's darkness of tone made it a good choice,
when frequent washing was not possible. In 1870 BASF in germany,
originally suppliers of natural indigo had started the search for a synthetic
substitute, in 1894 the process was perfected.

Jean shorts
Made out of denim, jean shorts are worn by both genders. For males, they are generally looser and longer. Also known as Jorts.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shorts

Jean skirts were first introduced in mainstream fashion lines in the 1970s, and since then, have grown in popularity. Today, jean skirts are one of the most common type of skirts worn by women in Western fashion.

In the sixties, hippies first came up with the idea of recycling old denim pants or jeans into long denim skirts, by opening the inseams, and inserting pieces of triangular denim (or any other fabric) in the front and, unless a tall slit in back is preferred, also in the back of the opened-up trousers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean_skirt

Denim clothing

Besides trousers, denim can also be made into:

Denim jewelry — Silver Jewelry with accents of denim
Between 1973 and 1975 Volkswagen produced the Jeans Beetle which had all-denim trim. They also repeated this concept in some later models.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denim

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